Showing posts with label bind-off. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bind-off. Show all posts

Friday, February 28, 2014

Update - Toe to Top Sock bind-off

You may remember this earlier post where I discussed my attempts to bind off a toe-to-top sock in a stretchy bind-off but was unhappy with my results: sock bind-off. Well, I just finished one of my daughter's socks (I know -- these won't be finished for this winter at the rate I am going!) and experimented with a different bind-off I had liked better in the past. This bind-off is sometimes called a tubular bind-off, but Pricilla Gibson-Roberts simply refers to it as a "graft off at top" or "graft-off edge."

Basically, you are using Kitchener stitch to graft off the stitches. In order to do this, you must first separate the knit stitches onto one needle and the purl stitches onto another needle. This can be done on 1 by 1 rib or 2 by 2 rib very easily. You simply divide your sock stitches in half for front and back. Then begin with the front stitches on one needle and divide them onto two needles by slipping the knit stitches onto another dpn and by slipping the purl stitches onto a third dpn as you come to them. You will eventually have two rows of stitches, the knits in front and the purls in back, just like you do for Kitchener stitch when you close of the top of the toe in top-to-toe socks. When you get to the end of the first set of two needles, you will need to separate the knits from the purls for the back of the sock just as you did for the front.

Here are some illustrations to help you see what I mean. This first photo illustrates the way the knits and purls are separated on two needles and shows the first step in which you use a tapestry needle to enter the knit stitch as if to knit and then take it off the needle as in the first step of Kitchener stitch:


This next photo illustrates the way you use the tapestry needles to go into the second knit stitch on the front needle as if to purl and then you leave it on the needle.


Now, you bring the tapestry needle to the back row of purl stitches and enter the first purl stitch as if to purl and take it off the needle:


The last step is to enter the next purl stitch on the back needle as if to knit and then leave it one the needle:


I found as I always do with Kitchener stitch that I needed to sit in a quiet corner for 15 minutes and really concentrate. It is slower than a normal bind-off, but well worth the effort since it is stretchy while being neat and tidy. Here is a photo of the finished graft-off edge (note the sock pattern included a bit of ribbing at that top so it makes it easy to use this technique; if your pattern doesn't, you might want to add it.):


There are so many ways of doing things in knitting, so I encourage you to try different techniques. After trying a few of the different stretchy cast-offs, I have seen, this is definitely my favorite. Please share your favorites in the comments section.








Monday, December 23, 2013

Knitting is about Learning From Mistakes

Even after 20 years of knitting, I am still making mistakes and learning from them. Making mistakes can be frustrating since it usually means re-knitting, but I am constantly amazed by how much I learn from these mistakes and the way it makes me understand the knitting process so much better than I would if I was just blindly following pattern instructions.

Remember how I mentioned in my previous post that I was unhappy with the look of the knit 2 together stretchy bind-off I was using for the first time on my son's socks? Well, guess what -- I was not executing it properly! I over thought the instructions, as I often do, and instead of simply knitting stitches and then knitting them together through the back as instructed, I thought I had to follow the rib pattern and knit some stitches while purling the others. Fortunately, when I began to bind off the second sock, I forgot to over think it and simply followed the instructions. I noticed how it was looking nice and wondered why it was different from the first sock. That is when I realized my bone-headed move the first time around. So, you guessed it, I ripped out the bind-off on the first sock and re-knit. I am so happy with the result. The photos below illustrate the differences:




Here is a picture of both socks with nice and neat bind-offs after having properly executed the knit 2 together stretchier bind-off:




And the finished object photo of the day:




I am happy with the finished result (and so is my son), but just for fun, I think I will try another stretchy bind-off on my daughter's socks when I finish them; it is called Jenny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off.  I learned about it when searching You-Tube videos for Cat Bordhi tutorials (they are instructional and entertaining); Cat has a great one demonstrating Jenny's bind-off technique and seems very enthusiastic about it while demonstrating it.

Please let me know in the comments which bind-off technique you use when knitting socks from the toe-up.



Friday, December 20, 2013

Great Short-Row Heels!

Like most of you, I am sure, I have been furiously knitting away on some holiday presents. One of these is a pair of really warm wool socks for my son who will be attending a football game soon. I am anticipating it being really cold, and his feet have grown considerably since I last knitted him a pair of socks. I have been making socks for over 20 years. They were the second knitted item I learned to make, and I love knitting them. They make for a great carry-around project for a busy mother on the go with teens like me.

I originally learned to make the traditional gusset heel, knitting from the top down, and was very happy doing so for many years. However, about five years ago, I learned Priscilla Gibson-Roberts short-row heel technique from her book Simple Socks: Plain and Fancy. She uses a type of yarn-over where you bring the yarn forward before yarning over when forming a knit stitch and where you bring it back before purling. Later, you decrease the yarn-overs, making sure to adjust the stitch mount when doing so, after the heel expansion is complete. The book is excellent and explains everything in great step-by-step detail. It took me a little bit of effort at first to understand exactly what she was explaining, but once I got it, I loved the result. Now I use this heel every time I knit a sock. The great thing is that the same exact short-row method can be used to form the toe when knitting toe-up socks. As a result, I have since converted to toe-up sock knitting! Lastly, her book not only describes this excellent method of knitting socks but also includes a detailed explanation of measuring feet for sock knitting and methods to turn a simple sock into a fancier sock.

Here are some pictures of two socks I have in progress using this method. The first one is the one for my son, which is a heavier sock, knit in DK weight yarn (Paton's Classic Wool, Dk, Superwash). Notice in the second photo how tidy the short-row heel on this sock looks. No holes!







The only detail I added to the sock is the three by one rib.  The next pair is one I have been working on for my daughter. Hers got put on on the back burner since she won't be going to the game. Hers are made from a lighter weight sock yarn (Fortissima Colori Socka Color in Disco) using the Hermione's Everyday Socks free pattern on Ravelry.







You can really see how nice and tidy the heel increases look on the second photo above. I also like the way the stripes form at the heel around the increases. Lastly, the advantage I see to this type of heel construction over gussets is how easy they are to make once you get the hang of them. When I used to make gussets, I felt like I had to do them in a quiet corner so that I could focus on picking up the stitches well in order to avoid holes. They took concentration and weren't something I was likely to do on the road or sitting in a gym watching basketball/volleyball. However, the PGR short-row heels are easy as pie and take only a little concentration once you get the hang of them. The trick to really knowing how to do them without reading her instructions is to understand why she is doing what she is doing for each step. Once I understood this, it became intuitive.

As for the toe-up construction, I have mixed feelings. I have made this type of sock top-down and toe-up. When I made them top-down, I use the toe decrease method I always used for my gusset socks with a grafted close to the toe. I like this method a lot, and I don't mind the look of the toe or the way it feels as some people do. (I don't use PGR's method of closing the toe when knitting from the top-down since I don't think I would like the way it would feel under my foot.)  As for toe-up construction, the advantages are that I don't have to cast on as many stitches since I use a crochet provisional cast-on that I learned from, you guessed it, wendyknits, or one I recently learned,  Judy's Magic Cast-on (You-Tube Instruction for Judy's Magic Cast-on).

When using either of the provisional cast-on methods above, you only have to cast on half the number of stitches you would cast on for a top-down sock. You also don't need to worry about joining the round and possibly twisting your stitches. If you decide to use Judy's Magic Cast-on, though, I highly recommend using at least one circular needle along with your other needle (it can be a dpn) until you get the first couple of rows knitted. It really helps to be able to utilize the cable part of the needle to make it easier to enter the stitches at first. Judy Becker shows this on the video link above. Overall, I really like starting at the toe since it provides some interest right way and allows me to have the wearer try on the sock in progress.

The downside that I have noticed when knitting toe-up socks is the problem of how to bind-off the top. I normally use PGR's method in Simple Socks; I like the look of it. However, on my son's socks, I was worried about using her method since I had the three-by-one rib and her explanation made it sound like that might not work so well. I tried another "miraculous elastic bind off" that seemed to work well and stays on his leg well; however, I am not completely happy with the way it looks. See for yourself and let me know what you think.


For comparison, here is an older sock where I used PGR's bind off technique. I like the way it looks better, but notice it is a two-by-tow rib, not a three-by-one.


Well that is enough about socks! I need to stop writing about them and get back to knitting them so that they will make it under the Christmas tree and on a boy's feet!